Alecs XS 650 Summative

for the handlebars i had to  remove them from the bike then take the throttle and clutch off and put the signal switch and the new clutch on the new chrome bars and then fixed up the throttle  and put it on the bike too then had to disassemble the signal switch and lube it scrape away any rust then put it back on the bars and it was working well and lastly i had to adjust the tension on the throttle cable

then on the gas tank and side covers i had to sand them with 150 250 600 then 1000 then i put 3 layers of paint on the gas tank and 2 on the side covers then i put 3 layers of lacquer on both of them

on the front suspension i had to disassemble the shocks and take the old fork oil out then take out the old springs and put in the upgraded damper valves but befor i did that i had to drill six new holes in the fork piston then i was able to reassemble the forks and put in the new springs and the new fork oil then run the forks back through the triple trees and attach it back on to the bike

this are the parts of the bike i worked on and  what it cost to fix/ repair them

handlebars parts

bar  32.95

grips   13.85

chrome mount  17.95

clutch lever and bracket 15.00

throttle cable 13.50   

signals

gas tank/ side covers

sand

paint 7.99

clear coat 8.99

suspension

front fork damper valve 54.95

fork tube

fork tube caps

fork spring 59.95

fork seal

o ring 2.95

dust cover 21.95

fork fluid 9.95

i have learnt a lot of new things in this class considering i really had no idea about anything when it came to motorcycles before this class i could definitely still learn more about them but for just about half a year i would say i learn a lot this semester.  

D&T Summative

Part 1:

The work Steffan and I did on the bike was strictly on the engine. What I did on the bike was started by taking the bike apart and started to find problems with it. We started by removing the engine from the bike which involved removing a whole bunch of bolts attaching the engine to the bike frame. Once removed from bike we had to start inspecting a way to get into the inside of the engine. We found the correct way to do that which was to start by removing the valve head. Once we removed that we then removed the cylinder head  and we could see the problem right away. The engine was ceased… this was something we did not want at all. So the next step was to get hammer and bang it till the piston came out. Once that was done we were able to remove the piston from the cylinder. I removed the piston from cylinder and saw that the cylinder looked really dirty and needed a cleaning. The piston rings were really worn out so I knew we had to get new parts for that. The cam chain looked good but the cam chain guide was really worn out. I then removed the oil cover from the side of the bike. Everything was in good shape other than the gaskets, we needed to replace all the gaskets on the bike because they were all in bad shape. So when I put the engine back together I put 2 fresh oil filters in it, put new rings on the piston, we took the engine to a machine shop and Deglazed the cylinder head of the engine, put new gaskets where needed, and put a new cam chain guide on. Once this was all done it was good enough to get the bike working and ready to function.

Part 2:

Parts List

Oil Filter - $5.95

Piston Rings - $64.46

Deglazed Engine - $110

Gaskets - $64.95

Oil Filter Screen - $13.95

Front Cam Chain Guide - $28.95

Part 3:

What I have learned in this course has been a lot about engines and how they work. It has helped me to understand how to rebuild and fix an engine. I think this will help me in the future because I will be able to figure out how to do little work like an oil change or even bigger work like rebuild an engine if I ever run into that problem. I found that its not just the hard work, it is work that you can do with friends and work that always feels great whenever you have finished what u have done. It is such an amazing accomplishment when achieving something like this and it is always a great time when it is accomplished right.

XS 650 Summative Assignment

Part 1:

My role in repairing the bike has let me work on many different areas and systems. At the beginning of the project, my main focus was on the electrical system including wiring connections, fuses, the battery, headlight, tail light, signal switches and lights. I started out my work on the bike by disconnecting the wires inside the headlight casing and labelling them alphabetically to be able to connect them when reassembling the bike.

 Once all the wires were disconnected, I assisted Alec in removing the handlebars. After all the wires at the front of the bike had been removed, I moved to the back of the bike to disconnect and label wires. The next step was to remove the battery casing to remove the rust. Before the battery casing could come out, I had to remove multiple electrical components attached on to the outside of the casing. Sunjin and I then removed the tail lights, rear fender and rear wheel to get to the battery casing. After the casing was out, I turned my attention the electrical wiring.

All of the connections were corroded and in need of a cleaning so I began spraying them with a protective coating to remove and protect the connections. After the connections were clean, we found a new fuse holder for the fuses. I began to strip and solder the wires from the old fuse holder onto the new one with a solder gun. After soldering the wires onto the fuse box, I turned my attention to the carburetor.

The carburetor was a part of the project that I spent most of my time on. I began my work by spraying all the components with carburetor spray to clean out all the dirt and old fuel left in it. I then did research into upgrades for the carburetor to increase fuel efficiency and air to fuel ratio for a cleaner burn. Since the carburetor and the electrical ignition system are closely related, I also looked into upgrades for the electrical ignition system. We decided that an upgrade to a dual ignition coil, more powerful spark plugs and the Pamco electronic trigger system was needed. Keeping in mind the electric upgrades, DS and I decided on a package of components that would help the carburetor perform with the other upgraded electrical components. When the package arrived, I replaced the components that needed to be upgraded, as well as components that were old and worn (i.e. gaskets). With one more spray of carb cleaner to make sure all passageways were clean and clear, I began to rebuild the carburetor.

 Once the carb was rebuilt, I helped Eric attach it to the engine. By then, Alec had finished painting the battery casing and so, we put that in. I installed the electrical wiring back onto the frame as well as the many electrical components that were on the battery casing. Once Sunjin had put the rear wheel, fender and signal lights on, I reconnected all the wires that I had previously disconnected. Once the handlebars and speedometer were on, I did the same for the front headlight casing.

 When the battery arrived, we filled it up with acid and then put it into the battery casing. We then used the battery to check on all the electrical systems to make sure that they worked. We had some trouble with the signal lights but we soon found out it was due to a very poor connection. I began to take apart the electrical housing for the signal and sprayed some lube in to unseize it. Alec finished up the work so that the signal works again. I also cleaned, fixed and reattached the headlight onto the headlight casing. Right now, the only things that I have left to do is to replace the horn with the new one that we ordered in, and replace the right rear signal light because of the bad connection.

Parts and Material List:

Carburetor:

Mikuni Carb Rebuild Kit (2) - $43.90

- 2 Gaskets
- Pilot Jet
- Small Round Main Jet
- Pilot Air Mixture Screw with Spring and O-Ring
- Choke Plunger and Washer
- Float Valve Assembly
Float Bowl Drain Plug - $7.00

Jet Needle (2) - $11.90

Main Jet Sm. Round Type (2) - $5.95
5mm. Carb Float Bowl Screws (8) - $5.90
4mm. CV Carb Float Bowl Screws (8) - $4.50

Total Amount for Carburetor: $79.15

Electrical:

12v motorcycle battery - $46.00

Fuses (4) - $1.00

Ignition Switch with Keys - $29.95

Pamco Ultimate High Output Ignition System - $224.95

Horn 12v - Chrome Face - $11.95

Button with Spring (for horn) - $5.95

Screws for Signal Housing (2) - $1.25

3 pc. Rear Signal Mount Kit (2) - $25.90

Signal Lamp Assy. Lens (2) - $35.90

Total Amount for Electrical: $382.85

Part 3:
The things that I have learned working on the bike are extensive. I have learned many things about electrical components and their uses as well as carburetors and the effect they have on fuel consumption and how the engine runs. My practical skills have increased as well. I know how to use different tools as well as make tools for some certain jobs. I have also learned how to be a leader in an area that I know a lot about and how to follow when they know more than I do. Since I am hoping to get into the automotive trade, this project has been very helpful for learning new things not just about automotives but about other vehicles as well.

Great End to a Great Seas!

Today was the last day of class and last day working on XS650. We have almost all the loose ends tied up. The bike starts and runs like a champ now.  Despite this we do have a few small bugs to wrap up. The engine leaks oils, the clutch needs to be adjusted further, checking ignition timing to be sure and finish replacing the signal light and final tuning carburetor and adjustments. All in all the bike sounds and looks awesome and it has been a great semester at Rockway Mennonite Colligate.

Much Love from the boys <3 

D&T Summative

Part 1:

Eric and myself worked on the engine. As far as we knew the engine just needed a good cleaning with minimal repairs and replacement parts needed.  The first thing that I did to the Yamaha SX 650 was remove the engine from the bike frame. This was done by removing the drive chain which attached the drive gear inside the engine to the rear wheel. Next we removed bolts securing the engine to the frame alone with removing the electrical components. Because the bike is a kick start there wasn’t as many electrical components it was mainly the Pamco starter unit. Once the engine was removed from the frame I removed the carburetors from the engine. Because the bike sat for so long outside the carburetors will have to be cleaned. I then began to remove the oil tube thinger, valve cover and cylinder head. We did this because when we used the kick starter to try to start the bike it wouldn’t move leading us to the assumption that one or both of the cylinders were seized. The cylinder head was removed by taking the bolts off, the oil line, which brings oil from the bottom of the engine to the top and removed the cam shaft and chain. We did not have a chain breaker to remove the chain but we used the cam chain tensioner to release as much slack as we could so we would be able to slide the camshaft out of the engine. Once we got the piston free we sent the cylinder and cylinder head to a machine shop where they performed a process called Deglazing. This process was basically a big oven that burnt all the years of rust and grime off the components. I then spent time cleaning the grooves where the piston rings had been because the seized piston had resulted in seized piston rings and lots of built up grime. I then took the side covers off to inspect the rest of the engine. It was apparent that the previous owner had taken very good care of the bike because the inside of the engine was very clean as a result of regular oil changes. Upon further inspection of the oil filters we noticed that there was an abundance of black flakes of plastic and metal. This was a result of the cam chain guide needing to be replaced. Here you can see the removal of the seized piston and cylinder.  I finished by reconnecting the chain adjusting the clutch and setting the chain tension. The chain should have about  ¾ inch of play. we set that by measuring the chains play from its resting position to pushing down as far as it would go. The next step was centering the rear wheel on the bike. Truing the wheel proved to be more difficult than anticipated because the marker that is used to line up the rear axle with was broken off. As a result of this we centered the wheel using a Dial Indicator.  

Part 2:

Parts list

Pamco Ultimate High Output Ignition System: $225

Commando muffler and reducer sleeves: $155

Die cast chrome Crankcase breather filter: $15

Clutch Replacement:

 Clutch pushrod seal: $5.75

 Clutch cable: $15

 Clutch lever: $8.50

 Clutch Bracket: $6.50

         Total: $35.75

Part 3:  

I have learned many new thing regarding how a motor bike over all works. This course has taught me how to work on small single cylinder engines to working on large car engines and cars as a whole. I feel the bike has helped reiterate everything I have learned over the last three years. This has helped me to feel more confident to perform more tasks on my own vehicles and small engine because many of the systems that we worked on on the bike are similar to that of those others. The bike has also taught me more about what you put in is what you get out and being prideful of my work and accomplishments.            

 today we got the bike running but it was back firing so we need to tune the carbs

 got the gas tank and the side covers on but we still need to paint them
we also put the new mirrors on

and Sungjin tightend the bolts on the rear fender















the work that we have left to do
-get the horn working
-rear tail lights need to be replaced
-paint the side and gas tank
- setting the ignition timing
-tuning the carburetors

today Alec checked light and Eric put the oil into motorcycle because we will try start up

first try was fail even engine was normal because the choke was unstart so we tried again  

-first try

second try

finally the motorcycle worked to start up